Posts Tagged ‘onions’

August Gardening Advice

August 1st, 2018 | News | 0 Comments

Mr-Fothergills-August-Gardening-Advice

Temperatures are soaring, the sun is shining; summer is well and truly here.

Flowers are bursting with vibrant colour. From golden heleniums to fiery dahlias, the reds, oranges and yellows have taken over from the pastel shades of spring.

But with scorching weather comes the ongoing battle to prevent plants from drying out. Watering cans and hoses are the gardener’s ally, but use water sensibly. Water butts, drip irrigation systems and water-retention gels are good items to have in your arsenal.

August is also the month for harvesting your homegrown fruit and veg. Try to manage your gluts by blanching and freezing any excess veg for a later date. Or, be the most popular person in your street by sharing produce with your neighbours!

Summer won’t last forever, but while it’s here, take the time to relax in the garden with a glass of something cold, and enjoy the fruits of your labours.

 

In the flower garden

HOLIDAY

August is traditionally the month to pack your suitcase and get away from it all. If you are going away, ensure you make plans to keep your garden from drying out. Ask a neighbour to pop over once every few days to water and check on your garden. If you have pots and containers, group them all together under some shade, to make the job easier. Keep greenhouses ventilated, and if necessary, create some shade to prevent your plants from getting scorched.

DEADHEADING

Deadhead regularly to keep flowers blooming into autumn. Fresh blooms not only look good, but continue to feed bees, butterflies and hoverflies, which are essential to a garden’s wellbeing. Sweet peas will be keen to set seed, so it’s important to deadhead daily.

PERENNIALS

With heavy blooms and ever-growing stems, plants such as dahlias and gladioli will need staking. This extra support will not only prevent damage, but discourage ground pests from attacking low-lying plants.

Summer-gardening-cut-your-lavender

LAVENDER

Stop lavender from becoming leggy by cutting into a compact shape, but don’t cut too far back as new flowers can’t grow on old wood. Use the cut flowers around the home. You could create lavender pouches to scent drawers or pillow cases.

WISTERIA

Ideally, you want to prune wisteria twice a year. Once in late winter, and once now in august. There’s been a lot of growth during the summer months, so cut these newly-formed long laterals back to the fifth set of leaves on each shoot, and tie-in where necessary. This restricts the growth, creates better ventilation, hardens the remaining summer growth, and encourages new flower buds for next year.

HEDGES

Hedges can become unruly in summer, so now’s the time to give them a prune. Whether you’re using shears or a hedge trimmer, think about how you want your hedge to look. Work from the bottom up in a smooth, controlled motion. Prune all sides and finish with the top. Wear protective clothing and use the correct height support if the hedge is high. Once completed, clear away all debris.

WATERING

This year, temperatures have been at their hottest, and our gardens and allotments are relying on us to sustain them.

Whether there’s a hosepipe ban in your area or not, using water sensibly is a good habit to get into too. Make use of water butts, re-use old dish water, and water early in the morning or at dusk, when the lower temperatures mean less water evaporation.

Keeping your garden well-weeded also ensures the water goes to the plants that need it.

If you’re planting up containers and hanging baskets, add water retention gel to the compost. If you’re growing tomatoes, create a drip irrigation system.

Every drop of water you save means less strain on our reservoirs.

POND

In the warmer weather, check pond levels daily. Remove any build-up of algae and weeds, placing it beside the pond overnight. This will give any captured wildlife the opportunity to return to the water. If you have water plants, now is the time to thin them. Clean the pumps and filters of any water features you may have.

 

On the veg patch

FEED

You should be feeding your tomatoes weekly now to ensure a healthy, tasty crop, but potash/tomato feed can also be used for cucumbers, aubergines, peppers, chillies and even sweetcorn plants.

MAIN POTATOES

As the leaves on your main crop start to turn yellow and wither, start digging them up. If you’re not going to eat them straight away, rest them on the topsoil for a few hours to dry the excess moisture, then place in hessian sacks. Ideally, the sacks should be stored somewhere with ventilation, where it’s cool, dark and pest-free. Check on them regularly to make sure none have spoilt.

ONIONS AND SHALLOTS

With foliage bent over and turning yellow, onions and shallots are now ready for lifting. Once lifted, leave them on the surface of the soil for a few hours to dry in the sunshine. Then, shake off the excess soil from the roots, careful not to damage them, and place somewhere warm so they can dry out. After a week, or two, they should be ready for storing somewhere cool, dark and dry. Either tie them together and hang them up, or place them in onion bags. Both storage methods should prevent mould, but check regularly to make sure none have perished.

Mr-Fothergills-growing-beans-from-sowing-to-harvestBEANS

Whether it’s runner beans or French beans, the key is to pick them regularly. By doing so, you’re preventing them from setting seed. Ensure they are well watered, and that the base of the plant is well-mulched. Once the plant reaches the top of its staked cane, pinch out the top.

PESTS AND DISEASES

August is the time for pests and diseases. Heat, humidity, and occasional rainfall are the perfect conditions to encourage blight. Check both tomato and potato plants regularly. If you see any signs of the fungal infestation, remove plant/s altogether. If you catch it at an early stage with your potatoes, leave the tubers in the ground, as they may not be affected. Do not place infected plants on the compost heap. Instead, either burn immediately or remove from the site altogether. To reduce blight, encourage a crop rotation system, and try to use blight resistant varieties.

Cabbage White Butterflies will be eyeing up your brassicas to lay their eggs. Check your crops regularly, and remove any eggs or pests you find. Net your crops, use brassica collars when planting out, and introduce nematodes to control caterpillars.

 

PICK REGULARLY

Courgettes, marrows and cucumbers will continue to produce so long as you pick regularly. Cut away excess foliage to help sunshine reach your crops and to prevent powdery mildew. Mildew can also be prevented by watering at the base of the plant rather than on the leaves.

FRUIT

With gooseberries now harvested, it’s the perfect time to prune the plant. You want to create a ‘goblet’ shape to encourage as much ventilation as possible. Remove the inner branches of the plant, and reduce the rest of the plant to about six leaves per branch. This will encourage fresh shoots to grow.

Keep an eye on plum and apple trees that might be weighed down by fruit. If the tree appears to be stressed, support and tie-in where possible. If you’re growing grapes, ensure the growing vines are being tied-in regularly.

Summer raspberry canes should have now fruited. Cut back the fruit canes, and encourage fresh new canes by tying them onto a support.

SOW

Although we’re mostly harvesting now, there are still things to grow. Succession sow salad leaves and spring onions for a continuous crop, and beetroot, kohlrabi and pak choi can also be sown now for a late harvest.

GREEN MANURE

As your veg beds start to empty, consider sowing green manure if you don’t plan to grow  winter crops. Not only will it improve the quality of the soil, but it will help suppress weeds.

 

 

How to Harvest and Store Onions

August 31st, 2016 | The vegetable garden | 0 Comments

store onionsIf you’ve grown onions this summer, you’ll most likely want to store some for use over winter. This post will share advice on how to harvest and store onions to enjoy all through the year. 

  • The cue for harvest-able onions, that can be stored is when the leaves on the plants begin to flop over and turn brown at the edges.
  • After they’ve been like this for a week, carefully dig them out of the ground using a fork. Lay them out on the ground or on a wire rack. Leave them like this for around a week.
  • If the weather is wet, ensure you dry them undercover. A tunnel or greenhouse, will do the job perfectly.
  • Prevent the bruising of onions by handling them carefully.
  • Onions needs to be cured before they can be stored. This simply means drying the outer skins. This can be done by laying them on racks or layers of newspaper.
  • Spread the onions out to ensuring plenty of circulating air to prevent mould or rotting. This process may take a further two weeks.
  • You’ll know onions are ready to store when the skins are papery, the leaves are shriveled and the roots appear dry. You should remove the roots and any dead skin.
  • If you’d like to store your bulbs as onion strings, cut the stems around 2 – 3 inches from the neck of the bulb.
  • All onions should be stored in a cool, dry and well ventilated area. They should also be stored out of direct sunlight, for example in a garage or unheated room in the house.
  • Don’t store any soft or damaged bulbs, use these as soon as possible instead.
  • Use netting bags or sacks to store the onions, these can hang up. They should be checked every now and then, to remove any bad onions.

These are just a few tips on how to store onions. The video below offers further advice on storing onions and using varying methods. If you have any suggestions on storing onions, be sure to let us know in the comments below. 

 

GrowVeg – How to Harvest and Store Onions

How to Harvest and Store Onions

Facts and figures on Onions and Shallots

February 1st, 2016 | The vegetable garden | 0 Comments

Onions from Mr Fothergill'sOnion red baronShallot sets

Onions and shallots are both botanically Allium cepa, with onions, which produce a single bulb, belonging to the Cepa Group and shallots, with their clusters of bulbs, part of the Aggregatum Group. Egyptian and tree onions belong to a third Proliferum Group.

No one is certain where onions originated, but central Asia, Persia (Iran) and Pakistan have all been suggested. Nor are we certain for how long onions have been cultivated, but we believe it to be around 5,000 years. Thanks to their concentric layers of flesh or circles within circles, they represented eternity to the Ancient Egyptians and were even buried with the Pharaohs. Traces of onions have been found in some Bronze Age settlements.

Athletes in Ancient Greece ate plenty of onions in the belief they would ‘lighten the balance’ of their blood. Roman gladiators rubbed themselves down with onions to firm up their muscles. Alexander the Great fed his army onions because he thought that strong food produced strong men. Another famous general, Ulysses S Grant, sent a telegram to the War Department in an onion shortage during the American Civil War saying “I will not move my army without onions”. He soon received his bulbs.

The Greek physician Hippocrates prescribed onions both as a diuretic and wound-healer. During the Middle Ages onions were used to treat snakebites, headaches and hair loss. At this period the onion was a staple of the European diet. Christopher Columbus took it with him to America, but wild onions were already growing there and being eaten by the native North American Indians. When the Pilgrim Fathers arrived more than a century later, onions were one of the first crops they grew on the land they cleared.

Nowadays around 9,000,000 acres of onions are grown worldwide annually. China and India are the two main producers, with the USA a long way back in third place. In the UK just 370 acres are devoted to the commercial production of shallots, with most of these in the eastern counties of Cambridgeshire, Lincolnshire and Bedfordshire. While shallots are easier to grow, quicker to mature and store better than onions, they are nevertheless only a minor crop in comparison.

The Ancient Greeks gave shallots their name, when their traders discovered them in the Palestinian port of Ashkalon and named them after the city. Shallots found their way to Europe in the 11th and 12th centuries when crusaders brought them back from the Middle East.

Shallots are an integral part of many classic French dishes, including Boeuf Bourguignon. The French grey shallot or griselle is considered by some to be the ‘true’ shallot, and is famed for it5s intense, unique flavour.

Still widely grown by gardeners today, Bedfordshire Champion was introduced in 1885 and Ailsa Craig in 1899. Onions and shallots do best in an open, sunny position and in fairly rich, well drained soils. Acid soils should be limed before onions are grown in them. The application of well-rotted manure or compost to the soil in autumn is ideal for spring-sown or planted onions; onion seed should not be sown on freshly manured soil.

 

To browse all the onions, shallots and garlic we have on offer at Mr Fothergill’s just follow this link to the onion section of our website

Royal Horticultural Society

 

This article was first published on the RHS website January 2016. 

Read more on the RHS website about growing onions and shallots successfully.