Posts Tagged ‘onion sets’

Growing Onions from Sowing to Harvest

February 27th, 2019 | News | 0 Comments

Growing Onions from Sowing to Harvest

Onions are a must-grow vegetable. Why? Well, where to begin! To start, onions are very easy to grow and properly prepared bulbs will store reliably for up to six months. As with potatoes, there’s something deeply satisfying about the weighty harvest you can get from even a small area, and as the starting point to so many recipes there’s every reason to grow more of your own. So let’s not hang about – read on or watch the video for the sowing to harvest guide to onions.

Types of Onions

Onions come in traditional yellow and red which are both great for the kitchen, but look out for white varieties too, which are often bigger, milder and great thinly sliced into salads.

For an extensive list of varieties check out our Garden Planner where you can bring up a list of varieties for every crop (including onions of course!) and read through variety descriptions at your leisure. Drop some onions into your plan, then bring up the Plant List to check the best sowing, planting and harvesting dates for your specific location.

Where to Grow Onions

Onions love a sunny and open site, and well-drained soil enriched with organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure. If your soil is heavy and tends to remain overly wet, then grow onions in raised beds or on mounds to improve drainage.

Starting Onions Indoors

Sow onion seeds into plug trays or pots of potting mix to transplant later as seedlingsFor the earliest start, sow onion seeds into plug trays or pots of potting mix to transplant later as seedlings. This avoids the need for thinning out, encourages a more economical use of seeds and, given the protection of a greenhouse or cold frame, means sowing can start at least a month sooner in late winter.

Fill trays with seed-starting or general-purpose potting mix, pressing it down into the cells for a solid fill. Sow a pinch of 4-8 seeds per cell, then cover with more potting mix to a depth of a 1/4 – 1/2 an inch (1cm). Water with a fine spray.

Transplant the resulting seedlings while they’re still quite small to avoid disturbing the delicate roots. Make holes into prepared ground, planting each clump of seedlings about 4in (10cm) apart before firming in and watering.

How to Sow Outside

Direct sowings can commence in spring as soon as the soil is workable and has warmed up a little. Rake the soil level then mark out seed drills about 1/2 inch (1cm) deep and 1ft (30cm) apart. Sow the seeds very thinly, cover back over then water along the rows to settle them in. Thin the seedlings in stages until they’re about 2in (5cm) apart for lots of smaller onions or 4in (10cm) apart for fewer but bigger bulbs.

Covering early sowings or transplants with row cover or fleece helps to speed things along at the start of the season, and may help reduce the tendency to bolt (or flower), which makes bulbs too tough to eat.

Some especially hardy varieties of onion may also be sown in late summer to sit through winter and give an extra early crop in spring or early summer.

Planting Onion Sets

Onion sets are super-easy to grow and save time sowingIn many regions you may be able to buy onion transplants for immediate planting. Another alternative is to plant sets. Sets are part-grown onions that are super-easy to grow and save time sowing. On the downside, they don’t store as well as onions grown from seed or transplants, and they carry a higher risk of bolting. There are, however, heat-treated varieties available that are more resistant to bolting. Nevertheless, sets are clear winners when it comes to convenience.

Plant sets in mid spring into prepared, weed-free ground that’s warmed up a little. Leave just the tips poking up from the ground and space them 2-4in (5-10cm) apart, depending on the final size of bulb you’re after. Some sets may also be planted in early autumn, to give a harvest up to two months earlier next summer.

Caring for Onions

Onions transplanted from module trays may be left as they are or thinned out once they’ve grown on to give bigger bulbs. You can enjoy the thinnings as green (or spring) onions.

As shallow-rooted plants, onions must be kept watered in dry weather. Keep on top of weeds too, hoeing carefully between rows, then hand-weeding within the rows so as not to damage the roots.

When to Harvest

Harvest time is approaching once most of the leaves have bent down towards the ground. Bulbs will continue to swell over the next few weeks before colouring up nicely in time for harvest.

Onions for StoringWhen storing onions in warm, dry climates simply leave the onions where they are on the soil surface to air out

When they’re ready, lift them up with a fork or trowel, then move those destined for storing under cover to dry. Any form of cover, from an airy shed to a greenhouse is ideal, or in warm, dry climates simply leave the onions where they are on the soil surface. Space bulbs out so there’s good airflow between them – racks can help with this. This drying process, called ‘curing’, takes about two weeks and toughens up the outer skin of the onion so it will keep for longer.

Store onions suspended in nets, tied into bundles or woven into beautiful onion strings. Onions should keep until at least midwinter, and as long as spring.

Awesome onions – you’ve got to love them! But grow them yourself and you’ll love them some more. If you have any of your own tips and tricks for growing onions, comment below or head over to our Facebook and Twitter page.

Care and cultivation of Onion and Shallot Sets

January 22nd, 2015 | The vegetable garden | 0 Comments

After unpacking your onion sets, put them into a cool,light, well ventilated and frost free place, away from direct sunlight.

Onions setsWinter hardy varieties can be planted in early autumn, otherwise plant onion sets between February and Aprilas soon as the soil is sufficiently dry and warm.  In practice this is usually late winter or early spring for sandy soils, and mid-spring for clay-based soils.  Heat-treated sets (which have had their flowering potential suppressed, so are bolt resistant) should not be planted before late March or April.

Prepare your soil by digging over and incorporating some general-purpose fertilizer, work the soil down into a fine tilth as if preparing a seed bed.

Onion and shallot sets are planted into a shallow drill (groove) in the soil, created with a string line and a draw hoe, or by laying a plank across the bed and running a trowel along its edge.  The drill should be about the same depth as the set, or a bit less for some of the longer sets (many shallots, for example).

Remove any loose papery skins before planting the sets. Push the sets into the soil at the base of the drill, with their pointed tips upwards.  Spacing can be anything from 2.5cm (1 inch) to 10cm (4 inches) apart, depending on the size of the bulbs.  Closer spacing results in large numbers of small bulbs, whereas wider spacing results in a smaller number of larger bulbs.  5-7.5 cm (2 to 3 inches) spacing usually works well.

Shallot setsFill in the drill with soil by running the edge of the rake along its edge to draw soil over the sets, or use the trowel in a similar fashion.  Use the trowel to firm in the sets When they are planted, the tips at least should still be protruding from the soil surface.

In the Spring, there is rarely the need to water newly planted sets. But in dry spells later on in the summer and autumn, new planting of overwintering onion sets should be watered in after planting.

Keep weeds checked as dense weed growth will seriously affect yield.  Water if the weather is dry (not otherwise) and feed occasionally.  Feed an autumn-sown crop with a liquid fertilizer in March.

Onions form a bulb when the temperature and the number of daylight hours hit the right combination for them which triggers their clock. Until that happens, onions use the daylight to produce a good deal of top growth before they form bulbs (and the more top growth, the bigger the bulb).  When the day reaches the right number of hours for that variety of onion, the onion will stop forming top growth, and form a bulb instead.  The size of the bulb that eventually forms depends on the size of the ‘stalks’, and the number of them.

There will be one ring in the onion for every stalk that formed, and the larger the stalk, the larger each ring will be.  Bulb formation will pause though during dry, very hot or very cold weather.

Break off any flower stems which appear. Mulching is useful for cutting down watering and for suppressing weeds.  Stop watering once the onions have swollen and pull back the covering earth or mulch to expose the bulb surface to the sun.

Onions drying in the sun

When the bulb is mature the foliage turns yellow and topples over. Leave them for two weeks and then carefully lift with a fork on a dry day.

Onions which are not for immediate use must be dried. Spread out the bulbs on sacking or in trays; outdoors if the weather is warm and sunny or indoors if the weather is wet. Drying will take 7 to 21 days, depending on the size of the bulbs and air temperature.  Inspect the bulbs carefully: all soft, spotted and tick-necked onions should be set aside for kitchen use or freezing.  The rest can be stored.

Store in trays, net bags etc: anything where the air can circulate.  Choose a cool and well-lit place to store them where they will keep until late spring.

 

You can order your onion sets and shallot bulbs from Mr Fothergill’s on the website, or by mail order from our catalogue.

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